The drive from Kiama to Pambula took us through some the most beautiful countryside. If we’d had more time, it would have been nice to visit a few of the towns and enjoy the local beaches and parks. Compared to the rest of Australia, where towns are spread hundreds of kilometres apart, you seem to pass through little hamlets with surprising frequency along this densely populated coastal region of NSW. There are quaint little shops selling all sorts of lovely paraphernalia, much of which is truly superfluous to our everyday needs but is terribly appealing all the same! Fortunately we were so tired, we didn’t have the energy to explore the towns and be tempted by the shiny offerings! (Our space limitations were also a good way to avoid the temptations).
Rather exhausted, we finally arrived in Pambula and parked the van on the vast, grassy front lawn of the Chester residence. Rain threatened so we hurriedly set up the camper’s rain covers, unpacked the ‘stuff’ we needed, and got settled indoors, safe from the inclement weather! It was lovely to spend a few days with Debbie and Geoff (sorry Sheryl...Geoffry!!), catching up on all the family’s happenings, sharing some home cooking and sightseeing around the local attractions.
We made a trip to the Bega cheese factory and marveled at the transformational technology that has impacted their industry over the past century or so. We also treated ourselves to some of the delicious icecream and cheese for sale in the factory shop! We took in the sights at Pambula Beach where the kids spent ages rolling down the manicured lawns that overlooked the magnificent bay. It was too cold to swim but we all enjoyed the spectacular scenery and savoured one of our last opportunities to laze about together before the reality of Melbourne life dawned.
We also spent a leisurely day wandering around the picturesque neighbouring town of Merimbula, which is kind of like the bigger, bolder cousin of Pambula. It’s modern, with plenty of signs it understands we’re living in the 21st century…chain store shops, trendy cafes and fast food outlets for instance. Pambula, on the other hand, is such a sleepy hollow that is feels like it would be happy to discover there’s still a decade or two left in the 20th century! It feels like a town where time passes slowly, where folks farm like their forefathers, where everyone tips their hats to each other and turns out in their ‘Sunday best’ for church services each week. It’s entirely charming and we loved it!
Pambula initially supported a community of graziers and agriculturalists. By 1856 it had 5 licensed hotels and by 1860 they’d begun building the courthouse (not surprising given the number of hotels!!) It was proclaimed a town in 1885 and, just 3 years later, when gold was discovered nearby, the population exploded. The goldrush days were short-lived and by the early 1900’s gold production had all but ceased and the town’s prosperity came to an abrupt end. In addition to Pambula’s agricultural legacy, timber felling and oyster farming also supported the town during the 20th century. It’s current population of just under 1000 is declining, which must be good for those who love its relaxed life, but the local area seems to be gaining in popularity so I wonder if it may yet have another renaissance.
We’d hoped to head to Canberra for a few days before making our way back into Victoria but with the Nation’s capital hosting both Floriade (huge flower festival) and a caravanning event attracting hundreds of grey nomads, we couldn’t find accommodation anywhere! Parliament House, the National Gallery, the Australian War memorial, the Canberra Zoo and most disappointingly, Lake Burley Griffin's Captain Cook memorial jet will have to wait!
With Canberra scratched from the itinerary, we decided to head straight for the Snowy Mountains on route to Benalla, our final destination before touching down in Sunbury. The caravanning blogs warned against towing through the Alps with its unending bends and incredibly steep hills but we weren’t daunted. It presented us with an opportunity to see the iconic Snowy hydro scheme and take a peak at Mount Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest mountain. It was agreed I would drive the bulk of this leg…a very sensible decision to ensure my stomach contents stayed firmly inside my stomach!! So after a few final farewells (including to Boris the turtle, who Gemma fell in love with) and much gratitude to the Chesters, we departed early for the big challenge, an 8 hour marathon drive across the majestic Snowys.
photos from left to right
Old wagon at the Bega factory
old cheese making equipment - Bega factory
old milk vat - Bega factory
waiting for icecream - Bega factory
beachside sculpture
rolling down the grassy hills - Pambula Beach
farewelling the Chesters