We were so excited when we booked our trip across to Fraser Island. It had been on our bucket list from the beginning but we weren’t sure it would be possible to get there.
I’m sure you’re all familiar with the main draw cards of the world’s largest sand island – pure bred dingoes and beach driving, but there was so much more to do and see. ‘Fraser’ boasts more marine diversity than the whole of the Great Barrier Reef, which lies just north of the island. The 350 species of local and migratory birds create a noisy but colourful addition to island life; reptiles, mammals and frogs abound and the diverse landscapes along the 123km of sand are simply stunning. The ecosystems include rainforests, wallum forests, coastal scrub, sand dunes and freshwater lakes. It is incredible to see how quickly the colours, trees and conditions change as you drive along the sand tracks that criss-cross the island. The gravity defying height of some of the trees is unbelievable considering they are somehow anchored (only) to a bed of sand!
We left our van in Bundaberg and headed across to spend a few days camping the old fashioned way…with a tent and only basic provisions. We already had a tent - it was strapped to our roof racks for emergencies! We packed a gas bottle and gas stove in the back of the car, together with some bedding and a thin exercise mat each to sleep on (which, as expected, was terribly uncomfortable but did the job for a few nights!) We purchased all our permits before leaving the mainland and chose a central campsite to base ourselves, aptly names Central Station. It was an old logging camp but had been transformed into a ‘safe’ accommodation option for families with its dingo-proof fencing. It also offered toilets and showers so sounded good to us! For those wanting more home comforts than a tent, the Island also offers a luxury resort on the west side, less salubrious digs on the east side and a plethora of private house rentals. We weren’t in the market for those options and equally felt a little unnerved by the idea of sharing the free-camp options with the cheeky dingoes, who at this time of the year can be very aggressive whilst raising new pups.
We had a busy few days visiting the major attractions including;
Lake McKenzie – probably the most popular and spectacular freshwater lake
75 mile beach – running along the eastern side of the island, 75 mile beach is an official national highway and doubles as a runway for light aircraft landing on the island. It was quite exhilarating driving along the beach at 60km an hour!
the Maheno shipwreck – what was once a glamorous steamer that held the record for the fastest transatlantic crossing at the beginning of the 1900’s, it also doubled as a hospital ship in WWI. In 1935 it was being towed to Singapore for scrap after being decommissioned but broke the tow lines during a severe cyclone and ran aground on the shores of Fraser Island, where it remains today
Eli Creek – a freshwater creek that pumps about 4 million litres of water an hour into the ocean. It is more celebrated for its entertainment value than its ecological value with tourists flocking to it with inner tubes and blow-up donuts to bob along its gushing waters.
Lake Garawongera – rather less spectacular than Lake McKenzie but a lovely spot all the same
The indigenous name for Fraser Island is K’gari, meaning paradise. It’s a perfect way to describe this amazing place. Today the island is a national park and is one of Australia’s 11 world heritage listed sites; added in 1992. It wasn’t always considered as special. Its history includes sand mining and logging, both of which were stopped (decades apart) after separate government enquiries found them to be detrimental to the environment …no shit Sherlock! The challenge these days is balancing the hoards of tourists wanting to admire and enjoy the island’s beauty and uniqueness, and conserving its important environmental significance.
We were fortunate to experience periods of rain and sunshine during our visit. The rain quenched the forests and brought a vividness to the colours of the undergrowth that was so brilliant to be almost unbelievable. The sunny skies equally brought an intensity to the blue waters of the lakes and golden sands, easily showing us why it has become a favourite with so many. The rain also gave us some exciting 4wd adventures on tracks that were flooded and that had deep, unstable ruts. I’m grateful for the training we had with Harry at our 4wd course before we left. Despite the sliding, the bumps and the narrow 2-way tracks, we felt entirely confident of making it around without incident. (it didn’t help with the motion sickness but it was seriously fun nonetheless!)
Unfortunately we didn’t get to see any dingoes or whales, which famously migrate and play in the calm waters with their calves each year between August and October. We were not disappointed though. It was truly one of the most memorable and spectacular places we’ve been on our 2016 adventure.
photos from left to right
Our accommodation on Fraser - we love our tent! Simple but effective...even in the rain!
Our dinner guest
family selfie at Central Station campground
Central Station campground
Central Station campground - little mushrooms made it look even more like a fairy wonderland
driving on 75 mile beach
the iconic photo every 4wd owner on Fraser Island has to take in front of the Maheno shipwreck - the storm in the background makes it even more special
the Maheno shipwreck
Eli Creek as it flows past 75 mile beach
selfie at McKenzie Lake - stunning location but freezing water!
the kids in McKenzie Lake
Lake Garawongera - as the rain set in
Lake Garawongera flora
exploring the island tracks
more exploring
the kids in the Kingfisher Bay Resort pool
looking back at the jetty from the ferry
the beautiful old jetty timbers
stunning scenery from the ferry ride
waiting for the ferry to fill up with the other cars & trucks
family pic on the ferry
Tashi on the ferry
the maritime flag fluttering on the ferry