Far north Queensland is the heartland of the banana and sugar cane industries in Australia. This time of the year is harvesting and crushing season for the sugar cane. The single track cane trains are very active so you need to keep your wits about you when driving around as there are plenty of train crossings without lights or bells. The trains have right of way so it definitely slows you down!
Mackay has traditionally been known as Australia’s sugar capital, producing about a third of the country’s cane sugar. Although the industry is still intensely viable, coal mining has become a major contributor to the economy. There are over 30 operational coal mines in the Bowen Basin, producing more than 100 million tonnes of coal annually…Anyway, back to sugar. Early sugar cane farmers initially built their own mills but soon saw the sense in a centralized, co-operative system, which enabled a more efficient process of harvesting, crushing and distributing their product. Today, only a few large mills remain, supporting the many growers who supply an average of 6.5 million tonnes of cane for processing annually. This results in about 850,000 tonnes of raw sugar and 180,000 tonnes of molasses. About 80% of the sugar is exported in raw form while the remainder is processed locally into products such as white sugar, golden syrup, liquid sugar products, cubed sugar and rum. Farming techniques have changed dramatically with advances in technology, improved environmental awareness and competition from overseas markets all pushing more efficient and effective methods of growing and harvesting. The iconic cane field fires are largely a thing of the past as the changes have enveloped the industry but I reckon the nostalgic image will still linger in the minds and hearts of many Aussie’s for years to come.
Michael decided to be a proper tourist and take the kids on a sugar mill tour. The Mackay region has four sugar mills, each with different milling processes, producing a variety of sugar products. They toured the mill that crushed the cane and made raw sugar. The mill began operating in 1893 and still relies heavily on some of the original technology. The mill estimated that they would receive 5.6 million tonnes of sugar cane from this year’s harvest. All were impressed with the tour, finding the factory and the facts incredibly interesting, including that it needed 16 processes to get the cane to a raw sugar product. Apparently the smell in the mill was overpowering and terribly unpleasant - Jesse spent the entire tour holding his nose to block out the stink!
Fortunately their visit to Mackay coincided with the town’s Spooktacular festival – their answer to Halloween! The kids had a ball, taking advantage of the vast amount of freebies on offer. Surprised by the generosity of the festival organisers, Michael encouraged Gemmy and Jesse to ‘go nuts’. They came home with fake tattoos, cartoon cups, craft creations, popcorn, balloons, crazy photobooth pics and a head full of fun memories…priceless!
Mackay brought another round of new friendships and playground capers. Michael was grateful for the opportunity it allowed him to get some ‘down time’, enjoying a little respite from the sibling sport of “annoying the shit out of each other” that Jesse and Gemma had become expert in. When they weren’t building budding friendships, the kids tagged along with Michael to a few of Mackay’s other attractions including visiting the man made harbour, the lighthouse and the lagoon swimming area, which, annoyingly was closed until September! They also had the unexpected and bizarre fortune (or misfortune) of experiencing a 5.8 magnitude earthquake. Gemma was unconvinced by Michael’s insistence that the shaking was a seismic event. She eventually accepted his explanation when they saw a news report the following day confirming that the earth had indeed shook!
The decision to have an extended visit to Mackay was largely based on needing medical tests for Gemma who’d been experiencing debilitating headaches for months. A couple of earlier visits to GP’s, an optometrist and ED shed no light on the problem so it was time to get some specialist’s opinions. She saw an ophthalmologist and had an MRI on her brain but, thankfully, they found nothing ‘sinister’. Although the news was a great relief, it didn’t provide any answers to her ongoing pain. Looks like a paediatrician will be the next stop!
photos left to right
Gemma and Jesse at the sugar mill. Note the odd fitting pants - supplied by the mill!!
sugar cane train arriving at the mill
sugar cane processing
sugar cane processing
at the sugar mill
Jesse at the sugar mill - blocking the 'stink'
at the Spooktacular festival
the Mackay lighthouse