CAIRNS & THE ATHERTON TABLELANDS, Queensland

We’d hoped to visit the Undara Lava Tubes on our way from Normanton to Cairns. The peculiar tubes of ancient lava are quite a unique geological phenomenon and the chance to explore them appealed to our quest for adventure. They formed about 190,000 years ago when a massive eruption caused 1200 °C lava to spew across the surrounding landscape. The volume of lava was huge – it would have filled Sydney Harbour in six days! The lava tubes were created when rivers of lava confined to a valley hardened and formed a roof…So, we found dog friendly accommodation in a nearby town, Mt Surprise, which is famous for gemstones such as topaz. However, after discovering it would cost us a few hundred dollars for the two hour tube tour we decided that adventure would have to wait. After a night at a terribly muddy van park, we motored on, bound for the country’s east coast.

As we began our ascent across the Great Dividing Range, the temperature plummeted and heavy drizzle became increasingly persistent. By the time we reached the highest point near the town of Mt Garnet, nearly 1200m above sea level, the wispy bands of white cloud had surrounded us and the sun had given up its battle to deliver any Winter warmth. We were far from disappointed though; the impossibly breathtaking scenery demanded, and received, our full attention. The landscape could have been stolen from a children’s fantasy book. Plump dairy cows fed on the emerald green grass that carpeted the paddocks and hillsides, feasting on the abundance of quality offerings that so many other animals we’d seen had been denied. There were little cottages nestled snuggly into the earth with chimneys puffing telltale signs of wood fires crackling below. The narrow, winding roads added to the fairytale feel.

After descending from the hills, the landscape changed again, beaming with the vibrant colours of dense tropical vegetation and warmer temperatures across the volcanic plains. We passed through Atherton and marveled at the crops of tall, leafy sugar cane and orchards of delicious northern fruits. After so many months of traversing the Outback and enjoying the rich earthy colours of its rocks, mountains ranges and dusty roads, the vivid hues of the tropics were both striking and surreal.

Our destination was a farm stay in Mareeba called Ringers Rest. It had few facilities but offered as much space as you wanted in a vast paddock that you shared with a dozen (over) friendly horses. We were frequently woken early by the sound of gas blasting into the cavernous curtain of fabric that floats the many hot air balloons in these parts. They sometimes landed in our paddock, dumping basket loads of bleary-eyed tourists next to campers in jimmy jams and slippers! Other days they floated silently past, surveying other parcels of farmland suitable to descend upon.

Mareeba is the largest town on the Atherton Tablelands. It began life as a railway and communications centre but is now known for growing incredible tropical fruits and world class coffee. It was a great location for us as it was only 60km from Cairns and 20 or 30km from the regions other major attractions. We’ve undoubtedly enjoyed the more remote places across Australia and have been most content when exploring the amazing natural attractions along the way. So, it was not surprising that we found Cairns rather boring. The shop-lined streets were the same as any other large regional centre – loads of chain stores and a few smaller shops selling crap we didn’t need or want. Even the weekend markets were rubbish! The beach precinct was definitely an asset to the town and was busy with locals and tourists enjoying the opportunity to meet and play outdoors in the warm Winter sun. The beach itself was hardly appealing though. The adjacent pathway was regularly punctuated with signs warning us to keep out of the croc infested waters. If you were tempted to take a dip in the sparkling, cool waters, the ½ metre of thick, oozy sludge that formed the ocean’s base would have been enough to make you reconsider.

We’d planned to stay a week or so in the area, exploring the diverse tablelands and the beautiful Daintree rainforest before heading north for our final dusty, off-road adventure to Cape York. We’d met another family travelling to the Cape at the same time as us and had begun preparations for our journeys to collide near Cooktown; happy to drive the more challenging and tricky parts together. However, our plans for the Cape York expedition were unexpectedly halted when Tasha got seriously ill. More on that in my next post, but it explains why the last few blogs have been a little delayed and haphazard!

PHOTOS

Not too many great pics in this bunch - our priority was Tashi not photography!

Rather than finding topaz at Mt Surprise, we thought these signs were little gems!!