MONKEY MIA (SHARK BAY), Western Australia

We were apprehensive about being drawn into the whole 'dolphin experience' mania at Monkey Mia but I will say upfront that it now ranks as a definite highlight for us all. I was finding it hard to reconcile the idea that 'wild' dolphins could be hand fed every day for 50 years without there being some kind of domestication or control over their natural instincts.

There is undoubtedly a tourist feel to the resort where it all happens. They frequently get 200-300 people each morning to watch the feeding experience (or participate if you're lucky to be chosen). This number can swell to 600-700 people during school holidays. Our visit co-incided with the WA holidays so we expected to be battling large crowds but, fortunately visitor numbers were very manageable. We initially decided not to stay at the resort - we liked the quiet free camps in the area, and thought the $100 per camp site / per night was robbery. We also figured it would be booked out over the holiday period. However, the friendly Ranger, Matthew from Goulet Bluff, had told us that there were still a couple of spots available in the resort's camping area, which was highly unusual (people book 3-4 years ahead to secure spots in the holiday season)...seems the cries of "she'll be right mate" from the Perthites was proving to be true after all! In a last minute 'fuck it' moment, we decided to hang the expense and enjoy the relative comforts of the resort for a few days. We're glad we did! Not because the 'resort' was an outstanding venue but because it was a stunning location and we could enjoy everything Monkey Mia offered without moving the car for 3 days!!

We joined the crowds each morning to watch the dolphin feeding experience. Even the dogs were welcome! We were genuinely surprised they allowed dogs in the resort, let alone on the beach when the dolphins were around. People were respectful and attentive, and included an interesting mix of overseas visitors and local tourists. There is no way of knowing how many dolphins will arrive each day - sometimes 2 or 3, sometimes 10 or 12. There were 3-4 on the mornings we were there. Each dolphins receives about 4 fish before being sent on its way. This routine can be repeated up to 3 times during the morning but is capped (for their own good!). People are chosen randomly from the crowd to participate in the feeding ritual but clearly the odds of selection are pretty poor! Incredibly, our kids were chosen two mornings in a row so they were very chuffed! The dolphins all have names, based on the shape of their unique fins. Our kids fed Shock and Puck. The pod only retuned twice each morning; clearly more satisfied with their catch in the Bay than the morsels of food they received performing for the adoring fans on the beach. However, on our last day, a small group returned to the beachside sanctuary for an afternoon frolic and to hunt a school of fish that were swimming close to shore. Parks officials kept a close eye on the onlookers, ensuring no-one 'interfered' with the gentle and inquisitive creatures. Our kids had been jumping off the jetty so were already in the water when a few swam past just metres away and circled a few times! Michael and I were only ankle deep in the shallows, paddling with the dogs. Undeterred by the hounds, one glided right behind us, less than 1 metre from our feet! It really was a special experience.

The insightful commentary from the Parks and Wildlife staff throughout the feeding sessions detailed the history of human interaction with the dolphins since the 1960's, how it became so popular that we began killing them with kindness and what's now being done to preserve their health and independence. Turns out that before controls were introduced, when visitors were able to freely interact with the dolphins and feed them unlimited quantities of fish every day, things became pretty grim. The constant touching was making the dolphins anxious and aggressive. They were regularly biting and knocking people over. The overfeeding meant the young didn't need to learn basic survival skills, including hunting for food. The result - many of the juveniles died; about 11 out of every 15 babies born. Since introducing controls, with strict daily food limits for each dolphin and a 'no touch' policy, the survival rate of the young has risen to about 12 out of 15 - the same as in the wild.

Tourist cruises and fishing were the other main attractions at Monkey Mia. The kids and Michael enjoyed a leisurely Catamaran tour one morning; excitedly spotting playful dolphins, shy dugongs, lumbering turtles and an assortment of other fishy critters! They lazed on the net between the two hulls and lightheartedly competed for ocean sightings with other on-board guests. It was clearly a highlight if the enthusiastic chatter when they returned was any indication!

We felt too lazy to set up our fishing gear, but a plethora of recreational fishing boats buzzed in and out from the shore throughout the day. Except for one, justifiably proud, teenage boy who snared a large snapper type fish (sorry - my fish knowledge is almost non-existent!), other anglers seemed to be returning with empty eskies; their jovial laughter suggesting it was of little consequence!

We did regret missing the opportunity to spend some time in the Francois Peron National Park, which is nestled between Denham and Monkey Mia. The overwhelming sentiment from those who'd been was 'breathtaking'. Ordinarily, one of us would stay at the camp with the dogs while the other would take the car and kids for an excursion. The Park was for high clearance 4wd's only and many of the tracks were rated as moderate to difficult. We had the right car for the terrain, however, after hearing stories like those from our neighbours about getting tyre blowouts and bogged in the sand, we decided it wasn't a good idea to go in alone. It is definitely on our 'wish list' to see on a return visit one day.

We lingered longer than we should have on the day we departed; all reluctant to say goodbye to this piece of WA paradise. It's remoteness makes it a difficult and expensive destination, especially if travelling from the East coast but i would recommend making the effort if you ever get the opportunity. I only hope they don't develop it too much more - it feels rather ramshackled and laid back with just a hint of luxury options for those who prefer to be pampered...something for everyone!